Experiences Over Things: a list

sunrise over sinaiSunrise over Mount Sinai

I’ve written a number of posts about what to bring home, but I haven’t given just due to experiences. Trends, of course, change and the millennial generation’s preferences for experiences over things is getting wide attention in the press.

For this post, I sifted through my own travel memories throughout the decades to prepare a short list of knock-your-socks-off types of experiences. Call it a “Things to Do Before You Die” list, rather than a “Places to Go Before You Die” one. There are many such lists on the interwebs, and I would dispute much of what’s there. (Case in point: you can skip the pyramids at Giza, Egypt and the rock carvings at Petra, Jordan, and still be fine IMO, but many people disagree with me.) Some of the experiences that made my list were dependent on the destination (for example, hiking Mount Sinai at dawn, which I’ll recount later in this post) and others can be created in a variety of places.

In the first example on the list, it was the combination of place+experience that puts it on knocked-my-socks-off list:

1. The Great Wall of China

I was underwhelmed by my first visit to the Great Wall. It was a busy tourist stop. There were super-sized tour buses. There were stalls selling various trinkets, such as “gold”-plated moulds of the wall. It was difficult to get a photo without tourists in it. I snapped a few and left.

Later in the trip, my family held a double bat mitzvah reception on an area of the Wall reserved for private events. This experience deserves its own blog post, but in short… The evening began with an elegant cocktail hour on the Wall with traditional drummers and dancers. Then we were seated at round tables in a formal setup in an adjacent section of the Wall. Our tables were surrounded by lush flower arrangements and beautiful decorations. We were served a delicious multi-course Chinese meal with red, white, and sparkling wine. A mix of music played and people got up to dance. We watched the sunset from our tables or from the dance floor. Sometime after dark, some secret guy behind a switchboard lit up the Wall section by section. At the end of the party, as the guests made their way back to the chartered buses, the skies opened up. It poured and lightning bolts lit up the wall in flashes. It was the most suitably dramatic end to the night.

1188-IMG_1183

2. Paris

Paris is enchanting anytime, but especially at night. Pro-tip: the light show in the gardens at Versalles (a short train ride outside Paris) in the summertime is total magic.

IMG_1731

3. Prague

I’ve written some about my time in Prague. This was a function of time+place, and there’s a full-length book that will emerge someday from my two years living there. I could be walking to work any day and see some architectural detail I’d never noticed before. Or look up (instead of down at the cobblestones) and see what I’d seen many times before, but my mouth would still drop open in disbelief at the beauty and grandeur.

4. Safari in Africa

IMG_20180503_054819

It could be Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana, Malawi or Zambia. You pick. There is nothing like seeing these great creatures living undisturbed on their own lands.

5. A quiet beach

Take a trip and find your spot, away from the crowds. My two favorites were in Costa Rica and Dominica, but beyond that I won’t specify. You have to find your own. On a vacation without an itinerary and with a malleable return date.

6. Oktoberfest in Munich

It was 1996 when I first went, and then returned a couple years later, so I can’t attest that the raucous, multi-cultural vibe remains the same. This experience merits its own post, but it would be rated R and names would have to be changed to protect certain people. You know who you are.

7. The Grand Canyon from the air

I was a seasoned traveler, even hardened, but when I flew over the Grand Canyon my jaw dropped open and stayed that way for a while.

8. Mount Sinai at sunrise

This is the moment captured in the photo at the top of this post. My aunt and I awoke at 3 a.m., as the local residents said we should, without a plan. We walked from our camp with its two dozen or so cabins in the desert, following the road out until we found other people on the pilgrimage. People were already out walking at that hour and the numbers grew throughout the night. We walked by a few homes and businesses. Villagers were up early, watching us, and we stopped a few times to ask where we were going. We chose a less trafficked, but steeper path up. Along the way, we hired a man for a few dollars to guide us. It was dark and cold and the path was steep and rocky, eventually heading nearly straight up. There were a few huts on landing areas on the way, serving tea and snacks. Our guide basically ended up pushing my aunt most of the way up the hill by her butt. He still turned around to give me his free hand to grab at times. We wouldn’t have made it without him. At the top, travelers from all over the world gathered and we set our gaze on the eastern horizon. We waited through hushed utterances of “what time is it?”, “which way?” When the sun peeked over the horizon, there was an audible gasp from the crowd, including me, and the sounds of shutters clicking and clapping all around. I am not a religious sort, but it was such a spectacle (nee miracle?) that it was easy to see why the ancients believed this was a holy place and why it inspired belief in gods.

9. Macchu Picchu

If you plan to go, keep an eye out as closures have been discussed.

 

Where were your most memorable experiences?

 

On the Cheap (and my comments on Money Mag’s annual list)

You can have the richest experiences by going on the cheap. Actually, I pretty much guarantee it.

Case in point. l LOVED Cuba.

IMG_0991

In addition to it making my list of top 5 places that I would go back to, everyone else I know who has been there has loved it too. That includes my parents who went 10 years ago; my friend who went 20 years ago; and my art teacher who moved there recently, started an art and tourism business, met a Cuban man, and had a baby all in one year! Last month, my aunt and uncle went and did not like it at all. Wha??! They took a cruise. I have written about cruises already. The ship stopped in three principal cities and a guide told them that the government embeds spies in the neighborhoods who watch everyone. And THAT is what they remembered. I told them I was in cities, villages, and on farms and met dozens of Cubans. I spoke to them in Spanish and we had a few English-speaking (Cuban) tour guides. Not one of them mentioned a plague of neighborhood spies. What did we talk about? The politics of Cuba, the political positions of the U.S., racism in Cuba, Russia, Venezuela, art, health, sports, food, music,… You get the idea. I loved it. You can draw your own conclusions, but if you are considering going, just DO. I should apologize though, as the theme of this post is “on the cheap” and it is not easy to go there cheaply. To do that, you will need to go on your own (not on a tour). This process is too detailed to write about here and the U.S. government regulations change fast, so research this thoroughly before attempting it.

Money Magazine publishes a great list of 20 affordable spots you can check out. I will comment on some of their choices. Of course, there are many more than 20 wonderful affordable spots. If you do a little research on, say, Central Asia, you will find spectacular sites with relatively few tourists. Here is one such example:

registan-square-samarkandSamarkand (photo credit: TripAdvisor)

On to Money Magazine’s list… I am going to skip their U.S. destinations, as it’s not my expertise. Here are my selected comments on their international destinations:

  1. Meknes, Morocco – My group of four did not love it. However, another friend did. Go figure. Nearby Roman ruins of Volubilus are totally worth a visit. Fez, with the largest medina in the world, is fascinating. I call Fez a MUST do, though overwhelming.
  2. Cozumel – I dunno. I’ve been to Cancun, Tulum, and Playa del Carmen, but not Cozumel, so I’ll pass on this one.
  3. Havana – see the first half of this post.
  4. Montreal – not sure why it’s on this list. Your call.
  5. Nanjing, China – I’ve been to Beijing and Xian and they blew my mind in a good way. I’ve mentioned that Shanghai is on my places to go next list, but mostly because I have a friend who is moving there, so maybe I’ll put this one on my list with it. See #10 below. However, the photos of Nanjing look promising.
  6. Monteverde, Costa Rica – I would recommend just about anywhere in Costa Rica. One of my top 5 of all time.
  7. Medellin, Colombia – never been.
  8. Crete, Greece – I’ll give this one a mildly interesting. The weather was not great when we were there, so we did not go to the beaches. However, would not have changed my reaction to the ruins at Knossos. Just ok.
  9. Prague – As I have such a deep love for Prague, I find this one difficult to talk about. From an architecture perspective, there is no place like it. However, it is overrun with tourists at all times of the year.
  10. Tainan, Taiwan – I have not been there. However, Hong Kong’s night markets and Bangkok’s flower markets get at least two thumbs up. One therefore might assume that Tainan’s night flower market is a wonderful cultural immersion experience. But I have a no-assumptions rule. The photos I looked at online appear carnival-kitschy rather than authentic, so proceed at your own risk. And please comment below if you have been!

Prologue to Prague

Prague 1994 from RFE RL alum FB page

It was 1994 when I landed in Prague for a vacation with my parents and my long-term boyfriend, Ron. They call Prague “The City of a Hundred Spires” with good reason, but it is a lamentably inadequate description that misses the sounds, smells, and souls that are essential Prague.

We emerged from the Delta flight to Ruzyně International Airport and descended the metal staircase onto the tarmac. I smelled it right away. It was the mingled scents of a hundred spires, myrrh, hand-forged iron, roasted chestnuts, the Hapsburgs, war, Communism, good beer, and a hundred thousand souls. Later, I learned to distinguish each of them, as well as the smell of soft, brown coal burned for heat and the leaded auto exhaust trapped in the valley on the days of winter inversions.

I grew up believing my grandfather’s father was from Prague. One of my great-grandparents was from Prague, one from Hungary, one from Germany, and one from another eastern European place referred to only as “the old country”. My grandfather, the first generation born in America, thought we were crazy to visit. He clucked his tongue disapprovingly and shook his head as he turned away. He simply didn’t get it.

We four were still in the airport at the northwest edge of the city when the thud reverberated inside my chest and head, the echoes of a medieval church door sealing inward for the night. It was the unanticipated sound of Prague lodging itself in my soul. Prague’s assertion came from a stew of reasons, but also, I believed I was personally connected to the place through my genes. As it turned out, you do not need a genetic connection for it to lodge in there. Prague is irresistible anyway.

The four of us had come for a short vacation, not due to family connections, but from a sense of adventure. Ron and I had traveled together before, but it was the first time we had gone on a vacation with my parents. I caught the travel bug early. I was 26 years old and he was 28.

Our tour consisted of three and a half days in Prague, a short flight to Budapest, three days there, and then home. As the scuffed white mini-bus deposited us, with three strangers and a heavily-accented guide, in front of the towering old Hotel International in Prague 6, I already felt cheated knowing the departing flight ticket was in my bag waiting in an envelope stuffed with travel papers.

The two receptionists at the front desk took our passports and walked into the back office, with no explanation. We waited. The carpets of the once-elegant hotel that housed Communist party bosses in the past, and possibly that day, were worn pink and burgundy. They harbored decades of Soviet dust and procedures. The chandeliers hung lopsided, offering a lonely working bulb. The flocked wallpaper was stained and peeling. There were cameras between the joists in the walls, now exposed, that probably hadn’t worked since the 80s. The receptionists hadn’t come back with our passports. I still felt shortchanged. I didn’t want to go to Budapest. I would shed a few tears when we left Prague.

Over the coming decades I would shed a lot of tears on planes. I never really knew why. I would also learn later that my great-grandfather’s Prague origins were another one of those family “misrembrances” passed down from generation to generation. But in the meantime, Prague was in my genes and in my soul.

Ron and I moved there one year later. We broke up there too and he moved home, while I stayed. It was my best of times and worst of times. It was all very much like a dream. I made lifelong friends there and sometimes we tell each other what is real and what was not, but everybody knows we are just guessing.