Experiences Over Things: a list

sunrise over sinaiSunrise over Mount Sinai

I’ve written a number of posts about what to bring home, but I haven’t given just due to experiences. Trends, of course, change and the millennial generation’s preferences for experiences over things is getting wide attention in the press.

For this post, I sifted through my own travel memories throughout the decades to prepare a short list of knock-your-socks-off types of experiences. Call it a “Things to Do Before You Die” list, rather than a “Places to Go Before You Die” one. There are many such lists on the interwebs, and I would dispute much of what’s there. (Case in point: you can skip the pyramids at Giza, Egypt and the rock carvings at Petra, Jordan, and still be fine IMO, but many people disagree with me.) Some of the experiences that made my list were dependent on the destination (for example, hiking Mount Sinai at dawn, which I’ll recount later in this post) and others can be created in a variety of places.

In the first example on the list, it was the combination of place+experience that puts it on knocked-my-socks-off list:

1. The Great Wall of China

I was underwhelmed by my first visit to the Great Wall. It was a busy tourist stop. There were super-sized tour buses. There were stalls selling various trinkets, such as “gold”-plated moulds of the wall. It was difficult to get a photo without tourists in it. I snapped a few and left.

Later in the trip, my family held a double bat mitzvah reception on an area of the Wall reserved for private events. This experience deserves its own blog post, but in short… The evening began with an elegant cocktail hour on the Wall with traditional drummers and dancers. Then we were seated at round tables in a formal setup in an adjacent section of the Wall. Our tables were surrounded by lush flower arrangements and beautiful decorations. We were served a delicious multi-course Chinese meal with red, white, and sparkling wine. A mix of music played and people got up to dance. We watched the sunset from our tables or from the dance floor. Sometime after dark, some secret guy behind a switchboard lit up the Wall section by section. At the end of the party, as the guests made their way back to the chartered buses, the skies opened up. It poured and lightning bolts lit up the wall in flashes. It was the most suitably dramatic end to the night.

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2. Paris

Paris is enchanting anytime, but especially at night. Pro-tip: the light show in the gardens at Versalles (a short train ride outside Paris) in the summertime is total magic.

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3. Prague

I’ve written some about my time in Prague. This was a function of time+place, and there’s a full-length book that will emerge someday from my two years living there. I could be walking to work any day and see some architectural detail I’d never noticed before. Or look up (instead of down at the cobblestones) and see what I’d seen many times before, but my mouth would still drop open in disbelief at the beauty and grandeur.

4. Safari in Africa

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It could be Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana, Malawi or Zambia. You pick. There is nothing like seeing these great creatures living undisturbed on their own lands.

5. A quiet beach

Take a trip and find your spot, away from the crowds. My two favorites were in Costa Rica and Dominica, but beyond that I won’t specify. You have to find your own. On a vacation without an itinerary and with a malleable return date.

6. Oktoberfest in Munich

It was 1996 when I first went, and then returned a couple years later, so I can’t attest that the raucous, multi-cultural vibe remains the same. This experience merits its own post, but it would be rated R and names would have to be changed to protect certain people. You know who you are.

7. The Grand Canyon from the air

I was a seasoned traveler, even hardened, but when I flew over the Grand Canyon my jaw dropped open and stayed that way for a while.

8. Mount Sinai at sunrise

This is the moment captured in the photo at the top of this post. My aunt and I awoke at 3 a.m., as the local residents said we should, without a plan. We walked from our camp with its two dozen or so cabins in the desert, following the road out until we found other people on the pilgrimage. People were already out walking at that hour and the numbers grew throughout the night. We walked by a few homes and businesses. Villagers were up early, watching us, and we stopped a few times to ask where we were going. We chose a less trafficked, but steeper path up. Along the way, we hired a man for a few dollars to guide us. It was dark and cold and the path was steep and rocky, eventually heading nearly straight up. There were a few huts on landing areas on the way, serving tea and snacks. Our guide basically ended up pushing my aunt most of the way up the hill by her butt. He still turned around to give me his free hand to grab at times. We wouldn’t have made it without him. At the top, travelers from all over the world gathered and we set our gaze on the eastern horizon. We waited through hushed utterances of “what time is it?”, “which way?” When the sun peeked over the horizon, there was an audible gasp from the crowd, including me, and the sounds of shutters clicking and clapping all around. I am not a religious sort, but it was such a spectacle (nee miracle?) that it was easy to see why the ancients believed this was a holy place and why it inspired belief in gods.

9. Macchu Picchu

If you plan to go, keep an eye out as closures have been discussed.

 

Where were your most memorable experiences?

 

Recommended Reading

IMG_20180715_104918Ampersand book art!

When I travel, I like to read books that are set in the place I am going or while I am there. Here, I am talking about creative writing (e.g., novels or memoirs), rather than guidebooks, but a comment on those first…

Earlier in my travel life, I read guidebooks, sometimes cover to cover, to plan out my itineraries. They are an indispensable resource, unless you book a tour and your human guide is serving that purpose. Even in the internet age, I still find guidebooks a much better medium and far more thorough than pages of printouts from articles, top 10 lists, and discussion groups. I like the books that have a combo of words and visuals and are opinionated, particularly an easy to scan rating system e.g. 1, 2, 3 stars. Two of my favorite publishers are not the biggest names you hear, but depending on your destination, check out: Bradt and Moon to see if one is available. And when I lived in Prague, the Time Out guide was an indispensable reference.

Now onto reading for pleasure and learning.

I love books that have a strong sense of place. A book can be particularly meaningful if it’s a place I know, however it’s not a necessity. A strong writer can depict a full and satisfying multi-sensory experience of a place.  Whether I have been there or not, I can still feel like I am there. I am also happy if I am learning something, say, about the history, some key event(s), or culture of a place. If you happen to feel the same about reading, here are some of my favorites, in no particular order:

West With the Night by Beryl Markham (Kenya and flight beyond it) – Markham, an early aviatrix shares incredible descriptions of a Kenya that is now lost to development and hunting/poaching. Her equally vivid descriptions of early flight are remarkable.

We Wish to Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With Our Families by Philip Gourevitch (Rwanda) – a definitive read about the lead-up and events of the Rwandan genocide. Gourevitch is a journalist, which enough is usually a strong indication that you will get a thoroughly-researched and well-written read.

Mountains Beyond Mountains by Tracy Kidder (Haiti) – the backstory and rise of Paul Farmer, one of the most influential public health figures today. Kidder is a Pulitzer-prize-winning author. These are both reasons enough, but it’s also an informative and moving piece of work.

Serpent and the Rainbow by Wade Davis (Haiti) – the book, not the movie. (I cannot be held accountable for the movie, which I have not seen and I understand was only loosely based on the book. It’s classified as horror genre, which the book is certainly not.) A fascinating journey, rarely glimpsed by those of us from outside Haiti, written by a scientist whose research eventually brings him into the voodoo culture of Haiti and lives of people who practice and participate in it.

Before the Knife by Carolyn Slaughter (Botswana) – I have never been to Botswana, though I have spent time in southern Africa.  Slaughter grew up there during the last years of colonial rule, with a father who was a British officer there and more than a bit of an assh0le.

Ladies No. 1 Detective Agency by Alexander McCall Smith (Botswana) – a fictional detective series with a strong female lead character. (I loved Nancy Drew books as a kid:-) I read the first 5 or 6 of the books and they’re delightful. It was made into a television version that I have not seen.

Born a Crime by Trevor Noah (South Africa) – I have been there, as a tourist, but Noah grew up in parts of the city that most tourists do not see. I was quite surprised at how much I enjoyed this book and learned about Noah’s frankly refreshing views.

Snow Flower and the Secret Fan by Lisa See (China) – See is a Chinese-American fiction writer. I’ve loved her other books that I’ve read as well. She does an outstanding job of creating an intimate world that’s a different place and time.

Oracle Bones by Peter Hessler (China) – Hessler is an American teacher living in China at the time, so you’re getting an American’s perspective on the changes happening there, but he’s an informative and interesting writer. I liked this one better than the also well-reviewed River Town.

A Thousand Days in Venice by Marlene di Blasi (Italy) – short, delicious book by an American expat about Italy, food, and love. I admit I did *not* find her earlier book about Tuscany to be as delicious.

There are so many more, but I’ll stop here. Book Lust to Go, by librarian Nancy Pearl is a whole book with recommended books to read organized into cities, countries, and other topics.

I like to buy books for the sheer pleasure of having them on my shelves 🙂 so here are a few sitting on my shelves that I have not read. If you’ve read any of them, please comment:

  • A Case of Exploding Mangoes by Mohammed Hanif (Pakistan) – about the plane crash that killed the then-president
  • Video Night in Kathmandu by Pico Iyer (Nepal, obviously)
  • The News from Paraguay by Lily Tuck – I’ve never been, but why not?
  • The Hungry Tide by Amitav Ghosh (India) – though someone told me Bangladesh, which was why I bought it, as I was living there at the time.
  • Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil: A Savannah Story by John Berendt (Georgia, U.S.A.)
  • Travelers’ Tales  Prague and the Czech Republic: True Stories by various authors collected by various editors. I have Travelers’ Tales Paris: True Stories as well. That I haven’t read them yet does not indicate my level of passion for both places. On my shortest list of favorite places, these two are on it.

Do you have any recommendations?

 

Beijing Does Food Right

1152-IMG_1038Celebrating a double bat mitzvah at the Great Wall

We ate REALLY well in Beijing. From the moment we arrived, we ate and drank our way around the city. In every photograph from the trip, we are eating or drinking: savoring a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe, slurping from a punchbowl of soup at a neighborhood noodle house, making a second (or third) trip to a buffet, or trying to find more room for yet another course at the bar mitzvah (above).

As a vegetarian, I had no problem eating anywhere, whether the restaurant was elegant or casual. Everyone seemed to understand the request.

There were many memorable food experiences. I’ll share just two of them.

A standout among standout meals was delivered by the vegan-only Pure Lotus. We arrived on a bright sunny, afternoon and immediately removed our sunglasses. The place is dark, mysterious, and moody. It was decorated with crystal chandeliers, porcelain buddhas, filmy fabric panels, Victorian lamps. Screens lined the walls with black and white lotus flowers and petals floating across them.

We were a large group with only two vegans, but no one missed out on anything and everyone was delighted. Our efficient team of servers brought course after course and removed empty dishes promptly. They started with tropical juices, moved through artfully-presented salads and appetizers, main courses. Among the main courses was a vegan version of Peking Duck. The meat eaters had ordered it multiple times before, so I was glad to sample that.

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We were so full we declined the desserts. Pure Lotus was pure heaven, but of the high-end (expensive) type. I went back the following night with one of my cousins and we ordered only the dessert course:-) (Note: if you are flying to Beijing specifically for this restaurant, and I recommend you do, do some research first. Happy Cow, a vegetarian/vegan website for recommendations worldwide, lists Pure Lotus as closed. There are some reviews on the larger search engines that get confusing, but there seems to be some cross attribution between a Pure Lotus and a Pure Lotus Vegetarian.)

 

Another experience to consider — and this applies to many places — is a cooking class. Again, it was easy to find a vegetarian option for this in Beijing. There were a number of companies offering cooking classes in the Beijing’s old-style neighborhoods, called “hutong”. One way to experience a hutong from the inside is through a cooking class.

P1000425Ancient gate marking the entrance to the hutong where our cooking class was held

There were five students for class: three in my party and a young European couple. We stood around a table in one room for instruction. We chopped vegetables and mixed our sauces before moving to the kitchen.

P1000436Our lovely hostess warming our woks. She had white rice already going in a rice cooker.

P1000439Tofu prepared three ways!

P1000440We ate the results, with tea, in the small courtyard outside.

The landscape of old Beijing is rapidly disappearing as the authorities destroy these old neighborhoods, dating back to the 13th century, to make way for modern architecture. Reports say 90% of hutongs have disappeared over the past 20 years. Countless families have been forcibly displaced, along with their way of life and social structures. It’s quite sad.

Printing and Displaying Favorite Photos

dinan 16Sheepdog monitors a flower shop in Dinan, France

I have written in the past about cheap and light souvenirs to bring home from your trip. Photos are fantastic souvenirs. They are as light as air and just as cheap. If you print them out when you get home and pop them in a ready-made frame, it can cost just a few dollars to display them on a shelf or on your walls. I have had consistently good results using Nations Photo Lab. Upload your photos, select the size and other options, and they mail the prints to you.

Photos are my favorite way to decorate my office. Memories of favorite vacations (or reminders to plan your next one) brighten up a generic office space really fast.

The photos here are my own favorites that I’ve chosen to print and frame.

guatemala 2009 KH (web)Antigua, Guatemala – a heavily touristed town, but full of splashes of color

 

Haiti KHHillside around Pétion-Ville, Haiti

 

xian china yTerra Cotta Warriors in Xi’an, China

 

2007_0902ethiopia girls yCurious girls at Adadi Mariam, Ethiopia

 

sunrise over sinaiSunrise at the top of Mount Sinai

 

IMG_0981 fave?Cuban Cowboy

Here is a post I wrote about Cuban Art and Framing Tips.

I should mention that the photos throughout my blog are mostly my own. If they are not, I’ve credited the source.

Another option is photo books. In 2018, I created my first photo book with my cousin after our wonderful trip to Morocco with her daughter and daughter’s boyfriend. There were so many colorful photos and wonderful memories, it was difficult to boil it down to the 120 or so that made it into the book. We used Mixbook. We found their website easy to use for uploading photos and designing page layouts. We were pleased with the print quality of the hardcover books we ordered.

IMG_2414Left to right: cousin Rachel, cousin Tammy, me (shot by Dani)

 

Here are more photos that I’ve not printed, but are candidates in the future (if I find space on my walls).

guatemala 2008 KH (web)Flores, Guatemala

 

Peru 060 yFarmer grows three colors of potatoes on an island in Lake Titicaca, Peru

 

rwanda 2Eastern Mountain Gorilla in Virunga Mountains – only 1,000 left in the world

 

rwanda 3Rwanda – dancers were waiting for us when we came down from the mountains

Yup, I got up and danced with them.