Haiti’s Carvers and Other Sculptural Objects

This was my first, and still my only, commissioned piece! I love saying that.

IMG_20190403_163046I went into this shop looking for a small wooden carving of a couple. A couple of weeks later I came out with this sculpture of Les Danseurs.  It is rather large. I should clarify that I did not carry it home myself. I was on a work trip and the artist told me he would be done in 1 week. He was not and I had my flight out. Luckily, another colleague from the U.S. stayed behind and he generously picked it up and transported it. I was expecting a tchotke, not a sculpture. Sean had to buy it its own new gym bag to get it back. Thank you, Sean 🙂

In this photo, Les Danseurs is sitting on my fireplace mantel, taking up a good lot of space there. The fireplace is in the middle of the room, so you can see part of my living room behind it. (Sorry, I could not move it someplace more conducive to photograph it, as it’s secured down with museum putty, which you can see poking out from underneath the base). My cats are wild things and I did not need them knocking over this monster. Crash and goodbye. They have done it before.

My sculpture is quite the conversation piece. It was on my mantel in my last home and I had to clear all the other things off it. In my new home, my mantel is bigger so I am able to put a few small carvings on either side of the base. Like this one:

IMG_20190403_162634

He is an Egyptian dog sculpture, about 4.5 inches high. I have an Egyptian cat on the other side. She is sitting upright – a bit taller and narrow.

I got the Les Danseurs sculpture in Haiti around 2007 and the Egyptian pair around 2009. I pack lighter and lighter as the years progress and I don’t typically buy anything bigger than my fist any more. A perfect example would be these cute little birds:

IMG_20190421_little birds

The terracotta pair is, well, terracotta I guess. I bought those in Peru. They are just under 2″ And the sweet little penguin is some type of stone. She is from an outdoor market in the square in Punta Arenas, Chile, where we landed after our sail around Cape Horn.

Light and cute and easy. I packed clothes around them, but at about $1-2 per piece, I wouldn’t be devastated if they do not make it home in one piece. These did :-D.

Cuban Art and Framing Tips

I bought this painting in the countryside in Cuba. It is a happy memory of Cuba that hangs over my bed 🙂

IMG_20180707_122956_788

I think this is oil. Don’t you love the antique car?

When I travel, paintings are one of my favorite things to buy. You have supported a local artist who made something with his or her hands, and the piece has a story, and you have a wonderful memory. Everybody wins.

Cuba has a wonderful, rich cultural tradition: music, dance, and visual arts. For a country with 11.5 million people, it is amazing that they offer some of the best musicians, dancers, and artists in the world.

Outside of Havana, our tour van stopped at a home where we found several exhibition rooms. The couple who owns it provides classes for kids in the community, displaying some of their work as well as that of several adult artists in the town. This piece was about US$45. Every time I look at it it makes me happy. It is so vivid and cheerful. I experienced that a lot in Cuba: vividness and cheer. The Cuban people have made the best of some extremely difficult circumstances and they have a spirit that will endure in your mind long after your visit is over.

Tip #1: Art is light and easy to carry home. Lay it flat in your suitcase, preferably in brown paper wrapping, sandwiched between clothes, or roll up the canvas, also with paper around it. If the canvas is on stretchers, making it more awkward to carry, you can have the artist remove the stretchers. I did that with this one and rolled it up:

IMG_20190403_163645

Acrylic on canvas Simba in Zanzibar 😀

Unfortunately, the paint that he used was either low quality or the canvas wasn’t sized (gessoed) or something. As you can see, there are a few faint white vertical lines from where the canvas was rolled and slightly crushed from the weight of my clothes. Some paint chipped off. Oh well. The piece was $20 and I still love it. It’s so full of energy.

Tip #2: About framing local art: the sizes are almost always *not* the standard sizes we use in the United States. This will make it more difficult to frame when you get back to wherever you live. I like to be thrifty. I will *not* spend $300+ framing something at home. No joke…

Once in Kenya, I bought a lovely little painting on thick paper of two Masai in reds and golds. It cost about US$7. I went to a framer in the basement of an art supply shop that I knew to be reasonably priced, at least their art supplies are. I picked out basic framing and matting. It was a small piece and I wanted the art to pop, not to be distracted by what surrounded it. Their price? $135. I took my $7 piece of paper and left.

It took me a few weeks, but I scoured antique and vintage shops around my city, Masai painting dimensions scribbled on a scrap of paper in my purse. I was lucky to find an old piece in a frame that was perfect and cheap, and the matting in it was also a good size. The problem? It was old. The matting was badly stained and had a small tear. Just a little effort and creativity goes a long way. And then in the end, you feel good about your work as well. I took a freshly brewed tea bag and after letting it cool, sort of “sponge painted” the mat. Spongy tea-colored stains hello, old water stains good-bye. You’ll see from the picture below how the tears look (upper left corner tear is barely visible, the lower left corner a bit more) after I taped up the back.

Voila!…

IMG_20190403_183539

Masai in antique frame

It’s prettier in person, but I was not about to go removing the image from behind the glass, as you are supposed to do to get a nice quality photo. There are old nails in the back and the parts are a bit brittle.

More about framing: with the explosion of online shopping, you can easily buy custom-sized frames and mats and save yourself a boatload of money over frame shops (sorry, local frame shop owners, but you may need to do better). Frames you buy online are often still handmade by someone in a shop. DO READ REVIEWS. The frame you see my Cuba photo in is from an Amazon shop called The Rusty Roof – made in the USA. I let my Cuba painting sit in that frame for months, disappointed by the washed out color. I’d been expecting something richer. Well, a sample-sized jar of paint from the local pain shop can solve many problems. I bought this vibrant turquoise for $3, applied two coats, and now it is one of my favorite pieces in the house. It hangs above my bed and, oh, happy me!

Tip #3: You can make your own art from photographs. I snapped this one in a small village. It was a moment I could see developing for just a few seconds. As the taxi pulled to a stop next to the rider, I knew I had only a couple of seconds to dig out my phone and snap. I didn’t have time to set anything up, zoom, or think. It just worked. My phone is a Google Pixel. It takes wonderful quality photos. Thank you Google.

IMG_0981 fave?Cowboy in Cuba by Kimberly Hirsh

Tip #4: Go small. I’ve been doing that more and more as I cover more traveling miles and countries. I find I just don’t need stuff any more. But I do like to support local artisans and a little keepsake brings joy. This was my most recent:

IMG_Morocco

The magical blue city of Chefchaouen, Morocco

This painting is TINY – a mere 5.5 inches x 8 inches. I brought it home on the stretchers since it was small and light. I popped one nail on a narrow wall in my bathroom and done! Frame not necessary.

Note: I HIGHLY recommend Chefchaouen! You could take photographs for days and not want to leave.

My Klimt-esque piece from Barcelona is another tiny one:

IMG_20190421_095432 klimt

I bought this at a stand on the Passeig de Gràcia, a main strolling street. It fit perfectly in a standard mat (you get a glimpse of the red) and framed to 5×7 inches, both purchased at home in the U.S. I’m not sure if you can tell from the photo that that the piece mixed media, meaning all those dots appear glued on and maybe laquered over and the gold curlicues are raised. I love this tiny thing so much (I mean, who doesn’t love Klimt?), I went back a couple years later hoping the artist would be there so I could buy some more. He was not. 

Lesson: when you see something small and inexpensive that you love right away, buy it right away. There are few things that you will ever remember and regret passing on, but art is one of them.

Palm Trees in My Eye

IMG_20170403_131606

It was one of those moments in life where you can’t believe your own fortune. The company I was working for was having its annual retreat. This year, it was in Playa del Carmen, midway between Cancun and Tulum, on Mexico’s lovely delft-blue Yucatan coast.

It was Saturday night and my co-workers and I had been drinking from pitchers of margaritas that the villa staff whizzed up before they departed each night. We had worked late, as we did each night on that retreat. The pitchers of margaritas came out around five each evening and we continued on with our business. I slipped away for an hour to my room. I had to call Boston to conduct a moderately drunken phone interview. I liked the candidate and so I was rather buoyant as I skipped down the stairs to re-join the group in the lounge area.

It was the second time in my years working for him that my boss looked at me and said, “What the fuck happened to your face?” Yatesh was not known for his diplomacy.

“Are you fucking kidding me?” My left hand reflexively shot up to my face, as if I could find the violation, feel it.

Granted, the first time Yatesh employed that exact phrase, four years earlier in Dhaka, my face was a mess. I could not see the mess in the mirror because I was literally blinded by a headache that put me in bed for four days. The only thing that got me up was to use the bathroom. I was eventually rescued by a team of friendly colleagues and strangers.

This time, the second, I was at a beautiful private villa in Mexico, on the beach in Playa del Carmen. But my face. Again?

“WHAT? WHAT?!!” I was panicking. I was ready to shake Yatesh to force his normally-hyperactive-but-now-flaccid mouth to resume moving.

“Your eye. It’s bleeding.” Yatesh was calm and it was not helping, but at least now I had a location.

I jumped up, tripping out of the bay of sofas, chintz pillows, and potted plants, to scurry around the corner to the bathrooms. Ok, I thought, at least this time I can see. My mind raced. Is there a doctor? A hospital? A competent doctor? There’s gotta be competent doctors in this tourist town, I thought.

This was my fourth incident. My first eye crisis was in Rwanda six years earlier. A few months later, on the island of St. Lucia. And that truly horrible time in Dhaka. Four times in the past six years. Maybe decades of travel were catching up with me. Maybe it was time to stop, I thought. Maybe Playa del Carmen has a twenty-four-hour hospital.

But back to Mexico. In the ocean blue talavera-tiled bathroom, I took some time to scrutinize my eye in the mirror. Of first note, it was my left eye. I had a cornea transplant in that eye and it was a constant worry for me, rational or not. I reconsidered my initial embarrassment at the thought of seeking medical attention. This is Playa del Carmen, I thought. These doctors would have seen injured drunk tourists before.

What had happened in Rwanda six years earlier was some pain in my left eye, but not panic. I consulted with my co-workers, who gave me the phone number of “the President’s ophthalmologist”. The doctor ushered me into her clean, modern, equipped office the next day. My problem was minor and she prescribed eye drops.

In St. Lucia, on a work trip, I woke up one morning in my room in a lovely inn fronted by a lily-filled lake. I rolled out of bed in shorts and a T-shirt and without getting properly dressed, went downstairs to say goodbye to my coworkers who were checking out at the front desk. My flight was leaving later that afternoon. I still had sleep in my eyes. Michael, my supervisor on that trip, was no less of an asshole than Yatesh, but more diplomatic in his delivery.

“Um, there’s something happening with your eye,” he said. Michael did not usually even look in my direction, never mind in my eyes.

“Really? What do you mean?”

“Well, it’s kind of red.”

“How red?” I asked and started touching my face, as always, when I become concerned.

“You should go look in the mirror.”

I did not catch my flight that afternoon. Instead, I spent the morning making phone calls to find an eye doctor who would see me (it was a Saturday, again, of course) and the afternoon sitting in his waiting room. After all his patients for the day were gone, he took me into his office. My eye, he reassured me, was not a problem. He said he had done a rotation at Mass Eye and Ear in Boston (my own hospital at home). No, I did not need any drugs or special treatment, he explained.

When I got home a week later and went in to my doctor’s office, the resident there told me what I had was a “rejection incident.” Had I been briefed previously on even one or two of the symptoms, I could have figured that out, without a medical school degree.

Two years later, in Dhaka, Bangladesh, was a serious web of problems that requires its own story. For now, I’ll just say that the illness delayed my return home at the end of a very long assignment. The doctor said I could not fly.

Meanwhile, back to Mexico and the present…

It took several minutes for my brain to process that I was traveling with an actual Boston-based medical doctor. I had worked in public health for more than a decade, but had come to expect the doctors I traveled with to be useless, hopelessly out of date, loathe to touch patients, or some combination of the aforementioned. (Bennett had actually recoiled with an “Ichkk!” when I merely asked him to look at the rash that had broken out on my neck while we were in Ethiopia.) However, this was an actual, real doctor. When he wasn’t consulting on research projects for my company, Nadeem did shifts at the E.R. in one of the busiest hospitals in the city.

palm eye zoomest

Nadeem was not afraid to touch me and he was completely calm. Turns out, he knew something about eyes from medical school and experience.

Nadeem said, although I looked like an alien from Village of the Damned (ok, I said that, not him), it was perfectly harmless. He called it a sub-conjunctival hemorrhage and said it had no involvement with my cornea implant. I know vaguely that these such hemorrhages are nothing, but I was still shaking.

He knew what it was, but he humored me in the most lovely way by continuing to look and peer and examine my eye from every possible angle and compare it with my unaffected right eye. He even suggested photographing it and sending the pictures to my ophthalmologist back home.

Phones have cameras and the villa had internet. Brilliant. I never thought of this in my state.

After snapping a few photos and emailing them off to my doctor, it was time to return to the margarita pitchers. My hand was still trembling nervously as I held the cocktail glass.

margarita

Two years later, back in Boston, I sat down in the patient’s armchair in my ophthalmologist’s office for a regular check-up. She travels some, but she always asks me about my most recent destinations. She wants to hear about my adventures to live vicariously. From my end, I would have preferred not to be on some of these trips.

During the two years that had passed, I changed jobs and took a role that allowed me to work nearby home. I had multiple eye doctor appointments. I took vacations to Morocco (where my left foot swelled up) and South Africa (where no health events happened). I forgot about Playa del Carmen and even public health was already fading.

Dr. Ann reminded me of the hemorrhage.

Was that me? This was my typical reaction to two years and a lifetime ago.

Ann told me she was delighted by the photos I had emailed her Mexico. She had set one of them as her desktop background on her office computer. She had been gazing upon it for two years now.

My eye?

She misinterpreted my surprised expression and quickly jumped in to say she hoped that I did not mind. No, I laughed, I did not mind at all. She said it had nothing to do with the bleed. When she had opened my photos on her computer screen, what she saw in Nadeem’s zooms of my eye was the reflection of palm trees and the sea.