Prologue to Prague

Prague 1994 from RFE RL alum FB page

It was 1994 when I landed in Prague for a vacation with my parents and my long-term boyfriend, Ron. They call Prague “The City of a Hundred Spires” with good reason, but it is a lamentably inadequate description that misses the sounds, smells, and souls that are essential Prague.

We emerged from the Delta flight to Ruzyně International Airport and descended the metal staircase onto the tarmac. I smelled it right away. It was the mingled scents of a hundred spires, myrrh, hand-forged iron, roasted chestnuts, the Hapsburgs, war, Communism, good beer, and a hundred thousand souls. Later, I learned to distinguish each of them, as well as the smell of soft, brown coal burned for heat and the leaded auto exhaust trapped in the valley on the days of winter inversions.

I grew up believing my grandfather’s father was from Prague. One of my great-grandparents was from Prague, one from Hungary, one from Germany, and one from another eastern European place referred to only as “the old country”. My grandfather, the first generation born in America, thought we were crazy to visit. He clucked his tongue disapprovingly and shook his head as he turned away. He simply didn’t get it.

We four were still in the airport at the northwest edge of the city when the thud reverberated inside my chest and head, the echoes of a medieval church door sealing inward for the night. It was the unanticipated sound of Prague lodging itself in my soul. Prague’s assertion came from a stew of reasons, but also, I believed I was personally connected to the place through my genes. As it turned out, you do not need a genetic connection for it to lodge in there. Prague is irresistible anyway.

The four of us had come for a short vacation, not due to family connections, but from a sense of adventure. Ron and I had traveled together before, but it was the first time we had gone on a vacation with my parents. I caught the travel bug early. I was 26 years old and he was 28.

Our tour consisted of three and a half days in Prague, a short flight to Budapest, three days there, and then home. As the scuffed white mini-bus deposited us, with three strangers and a heavily-accented guide, in front of the towering old Hotel International in Prague 6, I already felt cheated knowing the departing flight ticket was in my bag waiting in an envelope stuffed with travel papers.

The two receptionists at the front desk took our passports and walked into the back office, with no explanation. We waited. The carpets of the once-elegant hotel that housed Communist party bosses in the past, and possibly that day, were worn pink and burgundy. They harbored decades of Soviet dust and procedures. The chandeliers hung lopsided, offering a lonely working bulb. The flocked wallpaper was stained and peeling. There were cameras between the joists in the walls, now exposed, that probably hadn’t worked since the 80s. The receptionists hadn’t come back with our passports. I still felt shortchanged. I didn’t want to go to Budapest. I would shed a few tears when we left Prague.

Over the coming decades I would shed a lot of tears on planes. I never really knew why. I would also learn later that my great-grandfather’s Prague origins were another one of those family “misrembrances” passed down from generation to generation. But in the meantime, Prague was in my genes and in my soul.

Ron and I moved there one year later. We broke up there too and he moved home, while I stayed. It was my best of times and worst of times. It was all very much like a dream. I made lifelong friends there and sometimes we tell each other what is real and what was not, but everybody knows we are just guessing.

 

 

 

Palm Trees in My Eye

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It was one of those moments in life where you can’t believe your own fortune. The company I was working for was having its annual retreat. This year, it was in Playa del Carmen, midway between Cancun and Tulum, on Mexico’s lovely delft-blue Yucatan coast.

It was Saturday night and my co-workers and I had been drinking from pitchers of margaritas that the villa staff whizzed up before they departed each night. We had worked late, as we did each night on that retreat. The pitchers of margaritas came out around five each evening and we continued on with our business. I slipped away for an hour to my room. I had to call Boston to conduct a moderately drunken phone interview. I liked the candidate and so I was rather buoyant as I skipped down the stairs to re-join the group in the lounge area.

It was the second time in my years working for him that my boss looked at me and said, “What the fuck happened to your face?” Yatesh was not known for his diplomacy.

“Are you fucking kidding me?” My left hand reflexively shot up to my face, as if I could find the violation, feel it.

Granted, the first time Yatesh employed that exact phrase, four years earlier in Dhaka, my face was a mess. I could not see the mess in the mirror because I was literally blinded by a headache that put me in bed for four days. The only thing that got me up was to use the bathroom. I was eventually rescued by a team of friendly colleagues and strangers.

This time, the second, I was at a beautiful private villa in Mexico, on the beach in Playa del Carmen. But my face. Again?

“WHAT? WHAT?!!” I was panicking. I was ready to shake Yatesh to force his normally-hyperactive-but-now-flaccid mouth to resume moving.

“Your eye. It’s bleeding.” Yatesh was calm and it was not helping, but at least now I had a location.

I jumped up, tripping out of the bay of sofas, chintz pillows, and potted plants, to scurry around the corner to the bathrooms. Ok, I thought, at least this time I can see. My mind raced. Is there a doctor? A hospital? A competent doctor? There’s gotta be competent doctors in this tourist town, I thought.

This was my fourth incident. My first eye crisis was in Rwanda six years earlier. A few months later, on the island of St. Lucia. And that truly horrible time in Dhaka. Four times in the past six years. Maybe decades of travel were catching up with me. Maybe it was time to stop, I thought. Maybe Playa del Carmen has a twenty-four-hour hospital.

But back to Mexico. In the ocean blue talavera-tiled bathroom, I took some time to scrutinize my eye in the mirror. Of first note, it was my left eye. I had a cornea transplant in that eye and it was a constant worry for me, rational or not. I reconsidered my initial embarrassment at the thought of seeking medical attention. This is Playa del Carmen, I thought. These doctors would have seen injured drunk tourists before.

What had happened in Rwanda six years earlier was some pain in my left eye, but not panic. I consulted with my co-workers, who gave me the phone number of “the President’s ophthalmologist”. The doctor ushered me into her clean, modern, equipped office the next day. My problem was minor and she prescribed eye drops.

In St. Lucia, on a work trip, I woke up one morning in my room in a lovely inn fronted by a lily-filled lake. I rolled out of bed in shorts and a T-shirt and without getting properly dressed, went downstairs to say goodbye to my coworkers who were checking out at the front desk. My flight was leaving later that afternoon. I still had sleep in my eyes. Michael, my supervisor on that trip, was no less of an asshole than Yatesh, but more diplomatic in his delivery.

“Um, there’s something happening with your eye,” he said. Michael did not usually even look in my direction, never mind in my eyes.

“Really? What do you mean?”

“Well, it’s kind of red.”

“How red?” I asked and started touching my face, as always, when I become concerned.

“You should go look in the mirror.”

I did not catch my flight that afternoon. Instead, I spent the morning making phone calls to find an eye doctor who would see me (it was a Saturday, again, of course) and the afternoon sitting in his waiting room. After all his patients for the day were gone, he took me into his office. My eye, he reassured me, was not a problem. He said he had done a rotation at Mass Eye and Ear in Boston (my own hospital at home). No, I did not need any drugs or special treatment, he explained.

When I got home a week later and went in to my doctor’s office, the resident there told me what I had was a “rejection incident.” Had I been briefed previously on even one or two of the symptoms, I could have figured that out, without a medical school degree.

Two years later, in Dhaka, Bangladesh, was a serious web of problems that requires its own story. For now, I’ll just say that the illness delayed my return home at the end of a very long assignment. The doctor said I could not fly.

Meanwhile, back to Mexico and the present…

It took several minutes for my brain to process that I was traveling with an actual Boston-based medical doctor. I had worked in public health for more than a decade, but had come to expect the doctors I traveled with to be useless, hopelessly out of date, loathe to touch patients, or some combination of the aforementioned. (Bennett had actually recoiled with an “Ichkk!” when I merely asked him to look at the rash that had broken out on my neck while we were in Ethiopia.) However, this was an actual, real doctor. When he wasn’t consulting on research projects for my company, Nadeem did shifts at the E.R. in one of the busiest hospitals in the city.

palm eye zoomest

Nadeem was not afraid to touch me and he was completely calm. Turns out, he knew something about eyes from medical school and experience.

Nadeem said, although I looked like an alien from Village of the Damned (ok, I said that, not him), it was perfectly harmless. He called it a sub-conjunctival hemorrhage and said it had no involvement with my cornea implant. I know vaguely that these such hemorrhages are nothing, but I was still shaking.

He knew what it was, but he humored me in the most lovely way by continuing to look and peer and examine my eye from every possible angle and compare it with my unaffected right eye. He even suggested photographing it and sending the pictures to my ophthalmologist back home.

Phones have cameras and the villa had internet. Brilliant. I never thought of this in my state.

After snapping a few photos and emailing them off to my doctor, it was time to return to the margarita pitchers. My hand was still trembling nervously as I held the cocktail glass.

margarita

Two years later, back in Boston, I sat down in the patient’s armchair in my ophthalmologist’s office for a regular check-up. She travels some, but she always asks me about my most recent destinations. She wants to hear about my adventures to live vicariously. From my end, I would have preferred not to be on some of these trips.

During the two years that had passed, I changed jobs and took a role that allowed me to work nearby home. I had multiple eye doctor appointments. I took vacations to Morocco (where my left foot swelled up) and South Africa (where no health events happened). I forgot about Playa del Carmen and even public health was already fading.

Dr. Ann reminded me of the hemorrhage.

Was that me? This was my typical reaction to two years and a lifetime ago.

Ann told me she was delighted by the photos I had emailed her Mexico. She had set one of them as her desktop background on her office computer. She had been gazing upon it for two years now.

My eye?

She misinterpreted my surprised expression and quickly jumped in to say she hoped that I did not mind. No, I laughed, I did not mind at all. She said it had nothing to do with the bleed. When she had opened my photos on her computer screen, what she saw in Nadeem’s zooms of my eye was the reflection of palm trees and the sea.