London: where to visit that’s not Big Ben or Westminster

IMG_20191122_021252_794Bjork in concert at the O2 (love!)

For some reason, I took the same trip to London three times before deciding to see something new. You won’t be reading here about Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, or the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. You definitely won’t be reading about Stonehenge, which is on my list of Why?

On my recent visit to London, I stayed with a friend on the South West side, so my list is designed for convenience of travel from there. I was by the Raynes Park train station, near Wimbledon, and the destinations listed below took 45 minutes to one hour to reach. London is a big city, so be prepared for long travel times. Trains, tube lines, and buses provide outstanding coverage.

1. Hampton Court (5 stars)

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Built in the 1500s, this was the palace of Henry VIII. It’s remarkably well-preserved and dripping with history. The optional audio tour will refresh your history of Henry’s six wives and his break with the Catholic Church. Tour the medieval dining hall and the royal chapel. A series of kitchen rooms offers a rare look into food preparation of the day and excess of consumption. I spent three hours in Henry’s part of the palace and didn’t even make it to the newer, baroque side, and walked through just the part of the gardens open in winter.

2. Tate Modern (5 stars)

IMG_20191121_160351Some of Mark Rothko’s murals, designed for the Four Seasons in NYC

They have a top notch permanent collection – Rothko, Pollack, Krasner, Picasso, Degas’ Little Dancer, Kandinsky, Matisse – and fascinating rotating exhibits. Free admission(!) to the main collections and some of the exhibits. When I was there, exhibits included Olafur Eliasson‘s innovative projects, like his heartbreaking glacier melt series, Ed Ruscha, Helen Frankenthaler, and a Kara Walker fountain.

3. The Play That Goes Wrong/West End (4 stars)

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Clever comedy about, you guessed it, the production of a play where everything goes wrong.

4. Food (5 stars)

Food is important to me. I was very happy in London. Wagamama and Pret a Manger are two excellent chains with headquarters in London. Find food from just about every part of the world there. I had delicious dim sum one day. I passed a Basque restaurant in the West End. I didn’t try it, but Basque is one of my favorite regions for eating. There were vegan options everywhere, even at fast food chains and in train stations, like the parsnip and kale soup I enjoyed at Waterloo station. I found easy access to fresh juices and plant-based milks for my coffee.

5. Victoria and Albert Museum (5 stars)

IMG_20191123_142007_834Ceramic staircase

The V&A is an expansive decorative arts museum. Wander the European rooms, Asian rooms, and others to find collections of silver, ceramics, furniture, clothing, musical instruments, sculpture, etc. etc. The Victorian cast courts housing reproductions of famous sculptures throughout the world were fascinating. There is a large Chihuly glass sculpture suspended over one of the lobbies. I spent a bit too much time in their interesting gift shop.

The sites that follow, I missed. They are on my list for next time I’m in London:

6. Dennis Severs’ house

The house was home to a Hugenot silk weaving family.  Ten rooms are set up representing different eras between 1724-1912. These tours sell out, so book in advance.

7. Brick Lane

This is a funky, hip neighborhood that can be explored any time, but I’d like to coordinate my visit with their Sunday market.

8. Historic literary district of Bloomsbury

There was not enough time in my 5-day stay there!

 

Grabado

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I have discussed previously what a feast of the arts Cuba is. This post is on the Cuban art of grabado — translated roughly as engraving. This piece above, zoomed in, is an original grabado print I bought there. It’s on a homemade-looking paper, something like thick watercolor paper. You can’t tell from a photo, but there is carving where you see lines. For example, the line around the woman’s face, chin, and dress is carved into the paper. Here is the full piece:

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It’s fairly big at around 17″ x 21″. The salesperson rolled it loosely and put it in a cardboard tube for me to get it home. When I arrived home, I took it out of the tube right away to lay it flat.

Only after I started taking photos, did I notice the bird theme from her headwear etched into her dress as well:

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The Taller Experimental de Gráfica is an open, factory-like setting where you can wander around various artists’ stations, see them work, and purchase items. I recommend a visit while you are in Havana. I bought this piece, entitled “Mujer y Mar”, at their well-stocked shop. I love it!

This huge banner, suspended from the second floor, greeted us at the entrance:

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As you can see, Michelle Obama was there, actually, the day before we were! The Obamas were visiting Cuba during our trip. This was not planned (we booked many months in advance) and some of our plans were disrupted by the security, but it was an exciting and optimistic time to be in Cuba! A couple of times while we were there, Havana’s streets started to crackle with excitement, people walked quickly in one direction as a small crowd gathered and followed, and a few people in the crowd took out their phones. After a few minutes of waiting with them, Obama’s motorcade drove by. I have no idea how they knew he was due. Ahh, those days…

IMG_1139A grabado artist’s work in progress

IMG_1143 copyA plate ready for printing

IMG_1136Celebrating women artists as well

If I had a list of top 5 places to go, but I don’t :-), Cuba would be on it. The architecture is grand, but crumbling. Embrace the atmosphere and wander the streets. You’ll find murals, sculptures, and music playing everywhere. The food is fresh and inventive (I heard this is an improvement from years past). The streets are an open-air art museum. The people, who have been subjected to so much suffering over the decades, are friendly and curious. Crime rates are low, health care is good quality and cheap, and there are many miles of unspoiled coastline and rainforest.

As of this writing, it is still possible to visit Cuba legally under the “support for the Cuban people” category, and others.

We took a tour with CET (in late 2016). There were 15 of us, all from the U.S. The cost was high, but I had a good experience with them. They keep on top of the latest regulations and are active advocates for the Cuban people.

Shortly after my visit, an art teacher-acquaintance of mine moved from the U.S. to Cuba to make it her home. Once there, Laura founded a travel company, CAA, that she now runs with her Cuban husband, Yasser. Their prices are more moderate, especially if your group includes a few people, and they will work with you to customize an itinerary.

If you’ve been on the fence about traveling to Cuba, I say do it!

Printing and Displaying Favorite Photos

dinan 16Sheepdog monitors a flower shop in Dinan, France

I have written in the past about cheap and light souvenirs to bring home from your trip. Photos are fantastic souvenirs. They are as light as air and just as cheap. If you print them out when you get home and pop them in a ready-made frame, it can cost just a few dollars to display them on a shelf or on your walls. I have had consistently good results using Nations Photo Lab. Upload your photos, select the size and other options, and they mail the prints to you.

Photos are my favorite way to decorate my office. Memories of favorite vacations (or reminders to plan your next one) brighten up a generic office space really fast.

The photos here are my own favorites that I’ve chosen to print and frame.

guatemala 2009 KH (web)Antigua, Guatemala – a heavily touristed town, but full of splashes of color

 

Haiti KHHillside around Pétion-Ville, Haiti

 

xian china yTerra Cotta Warriors in Xi’an, China

 

2007_0902ethiopia girls yCurious girls at Adadi Mariam, Ethiopia

 

sunrise over sinaiSunrise at the top of Mount Sinai

 

IMG_0981 fave?Cuban Cowboy

Here is a post I wrote about Cuban Art and Framing Tips.

I should mention that the photos throughout my blog are mostly my own. If they are not, I’ve credited the source.

Another option is photo books. In 2018, I created my first photo book with my cousin after our wonderful trip to Morocco with her daughter and daughter’s boyfriend. There were so many colorful photos and wonderful memories, it was difficult to boil it down to the 120 or so that made it into the book. We used Mixbook. We found their website easy to use for uploading photos and designing page layouts. We were pleased with the print quality of the hardcover books we ordered.

IMG_2414Left to right: cousin Rachel, cousin Tammy, me (shot by Dani)

 

Here are more photos that I’ve not printed, but are candidates in the future (if I find space on my walls).

guatemala 2008 KH (web)Flores, Guatemala

 

Peru 060 yFarmer grows three colors of potatoes on an island in Lake Titicaca, Peru

 

rwanda 2Eastern Mountain Gorilla in Virunga Mountains – only 1,000 left in the world

 

rwanda 3Rwanda – dancers were waiting for us when we came down from the mountains

Yup, I got up and danced with them.

 

NYC Subway Mosaics

The New York City subway system is home to some incredible art. The price of admissions is a subway ride ($2.75 with Metro Card).

I am particularly enamored with the mosaics. Last weekend I was on the 1 train and happened upon this beauty at 66th Street!

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The NYC subway opened in 1904. Much of the amazing tile work is from then, but mosaics and other treasures have been added throughout the decades. This one looks old, but according to the MTA website, this golden lady is from 2001. It’s the Lincoln Center stop, adorned with Artemis, Acrobats, Divas, and Dancers over 22 panels.

Also on the 1 train, 50th Street Station offers new-ish (1994) Alice in Wonderland-themed mosaics:

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Photo credit: MTA

The 23rd Street Station has a lot to love. Here is a story about the 120 floating hats (from 2002) at the N/Q/R lines there. Also new (2018) are William Wegman’s Weimaranar mosaics. His dogs Flo and Topper can be found in 23rd Street at the F and M lines.

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Stationary Figures (2018) © William Wegman, NYC Transit 23 St station. Commissioned by MTA Arts & Design. Photo: mymodernmet.com

If you’re interested in visiting more of the NYC subway system’s mosaics, there are MANY more. Here is a list by curbed of their twenty picks, some old, some new. The MTA has an official site with art information on every stop.

 

Some More Favorite Photos

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These three are in Chefchaouen, Morocco — it’s impossible to take a bad picture there!


 

IMG_20171207_101305Fez, Morocco

This one was totally spontaneous. My cousin, Tammy, tapped my shoulder and said, “get that!”


 

egyptPedestrian passes a mosque in Egypt. That blue sky is NOT Photoshopped.


 

IMG_1135 flag peace topOld Havana, Cuba

Unbelievably, my friend Laurie and I were there at the same time as President Obama! The Cuban people were so psyched about his visit and so hopeful about their future relationship with the U.S. We were all so optimistic. Now this just makes me sad.


 

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Bonus photo: a beach in New England, close to my home. Sometimes you don’t need to go far.

Haiti’s Carvers and Other Sculptural Objects

This was my first, and still my only, commissioned piece! I love saying that.

IMG_20190403_163046I went into this shop looking for a small wooden carving of a couple. A couple of weeks later I came out with this sculpture of Les Danseurs.  It is rather large. I should clarify that I did not carry it home myself. I was on a work trip and the artist told me he would be done in 1 week. He was not and I had my flight out. Luckily, another colleague from the U.S. stayed behind and he generously picked it up and transported it. I was expecting a tchotke, not a sculpture. Sean had to buy it its own new gym bag to get it back. Thank you, Sean 🙂

In this photo, Les Danseurs is sitting on my fireplace mantel, taking up a good lot of space there. The fireplace is in the middle of the room, so you can see part of my living room behind it. (Sorry, I could not move it someplace more conducive to photograph it, as it’s secured down with museum putty, which you can see poking out from underneath the base). My cats are wild things and I did not need them knocking over this monster. Crash and goodbye. They have done it before.

My sculpture is quite the conversation piece. It was on my mantel in my last home and I had to clear all the other things off it. In my new home, my mantel is bigger so I am able to put a few small carvings on either side of the base. Like this one:

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He is an Egyptian dog sculpture, about 4.5 inches high. I have an Egyptian cat on the other side. She is sitting upright – a bit taller and narrow.

I got the Les Danseurs sculpture in Haiti around 2007 and the Egyptian pair around 2009. I pack lighter and lighter as the years progress and I don’t typically buy anything bigger than my fist any more. A perfect example would be these cute little birds:

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The terracotta pair is, well, terracotta I guess. I bought those in Peru. They are just under 2″ And the sweet little penguin is some type of stone. She is from an outdoor market in the square in Punta Arenas, Chile, where we landed after our sail around Cape Horn.

Light and cute and easy. I packed clothes around them, but at about $1-2 per piece, I wouldn’t be devastated if they do not make it home in one piece. These did :-D.

Cuban Art and Framing Tips

I bought this painting in the countryside in Cuba. It is a happy memory of Cuba that hangs over my bed 🙂

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I think this is oil. Don’t you love the antique car?

When I travel, paintings are one of my favorite things to buy. You have supported a local artist who made something with his or her hands, and the piece has a story, and you have a wonderful memory. Everybody wins.

Cuba has a wonderful, rich cultural tradition: music, dance, and visual arts. For a country with 11.5 million people, it is amazing that they offer some of the best musicians, dancers, and artists in the world.

Outside of Havana, our tour van stopped at a home where we found several exhibition rooms. The couple who owns it provides classes for kids in the community, displaying some of their work as well as that of several adult artists in the town. This piece was about US$45. Every time I look at it it makes me happy. It is so vivid and cheerful. I experienced that a lot in Cuba: vividness and cheer. The Cuban people have made the best of some extremely difficult circumstances and they have a spirit that will endure in your mind long after your visit is over.

Tip #1: Art is light and easy to carry home. Lay it flat in your suitcase, preferably in brown paper wrapping, sandwiched between clothes, or roll up the canvas, also with paper around it. If the canvas is on stretchers, making it more awkward to carry, you can have the artist remove the stretchers. I did that with this one and rolled it up:

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Acrylic on canvas Simba in Zanzibar 😀

Unfortunately, the paint that he used was either low quality or the canvas wasn’t sized (gessoed) or something. As you can see, there are a few faint white vertical lines from where the canvas was rolled and slightly crushed from the weight of my clothes. Some paint chipped off. Oh well. The piece was $20 and I still love it. It’s so full of energy.

Tip #2: About framing local art: the sizes are almost always *not* the standard sizes we use in the United States. This will make it more difficult to frame when you get back to wherever you live. I like to be thrifty. I will *not* spend $300+ framing something at home. No joke…

Once in Kenya, I bought a lovely little painting on thick paper of two Masai in reds and golds. It cost about US$7. I went to a framer in the basement of an art supply shop that I knew to be reasonably priced, at least their art supplies are. I picked out basic framing and matting. It was a small piece and I wanted the art to pop, not to be distracted by what surrounded it. Their price? $135. I took my $7 piece of paper and left.

It took me a few weeks, but I scoured antique and vintage shops around my city, Masai painting dimensions scribbled on a scrap of paper in my purse. I was lucky to find an old piece in a frame that was perfect and cheap, and the matting in it was also a good size. The problem? It was old. The matting was badly stained and had a small tear. Just a little effort and creativity goes a long way. And then in the end, you feel good about your work as well. I took a freshly brewed tea bag and after letting it cool, sort of “sponge painted” the mat. Spongy tea-colored stains hello, old water stains good-bye. You’ll see from the picture below how the tears look (upper left corner tear is barely visible, the lower left corner a bit more) after I taped up the back.

Voila!…

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Masai in antique frame

It’s prettier in person, but I was not about to go removing the image from behind the glass, as you are supposed to do to get a nice quality photo. There are old nails in the back and the parts are a bit brittle.

More about framing: with the explosion of online shopping, you can easily buy custom-sized frames and mats and save yourself a boatload of money over frame shops (sorry, local frame shop owners, but you may need to do better). Frames you buy online are often still handmade by someone in a shop. DO READ REVIEWS. The frame you see my Cuba photo in is from an Amazon shop called The Rusty Roof – made in the USA. I let my Cuba painting sit in that frame for months, disappointed by the washed out color. I’d been expecting something richer. Well, a sample-sized jar of paint from the local pain shop can solve many problems. I bought this vibrant turquoise for $3, applied two coats, and now it is one of my favorite pieces in the house. It hangs above my bed and, oh, happy me!

Tip #3: You can make your own art from photographs. I snapped this one in a small village. It was a moment I could see developing for just a few seconds. As the taxi pulled to a stop next to the rider, I knew I had only a couple of seconds to dig out my phone and snap. I didn’t have time to set anything up, zoom, or think. It just worked. My phone is a Google Pixel. It takes wonderful quality photos. Thank you Google.

IMG_0981 fave?Cowboy in Cuba by Kimberly Hirsh

Tip #4: Go small. I’ve been doing that more and more as I cover more traveling miles and countries. I find I just don’t need stuff any more. But I do like to support local artisans and a little keepsake brings joy. This was my most recent:

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The magical blue city of Chefchaouen, Morocco

This painting is TINY – a mere 5.5 inches x 8 inches. I brought it home on the stretchers since it was small and light. I popped one nail on a narrow wall in my bathroom and done! Frame not necessary.

Note: I HIGHLY recommend Chefchaouen! You could take photographs for days and not want to leave.

My Klimt-esque piece from Barcelona is another tiny one:

IMG_20190421_095432 klimt

I bought this at a stand on the Passeig de Gràcia, a main strolling street. It fit perfectly in a standard mat (you get a glimpse of the red) and framed to 5×7 inches, both purchased at home in the U.S. I’m not sure if you can tell from the photo that that the piece mixed media, meaning all those dots appear glued on and maybe laquered over and the gold curlicues are raised. I love this tiny thing so much (I mean, who doesn’t love Klimt?), I went back a couple years later hoping the artist would be there so I could buy some more. He was not. 

Lesson: when you see something small and inexpensive that you love right away, buy it right away. There are few things that you will ever remember and regret passing on, but art is one of them.